Monday, August 24, 2015

Down the East Coast of Newfoundland

                                                           Fogo Harbour

Newfoundland is mostly a province of fishing villages.  The towns are built higgily piggily along the rocks around natural harbours. We were told that the houses had to be built close to where the fish were because back in the day before there were engines, you sailed or rowed out to the fishing grounds.  Almost every cove we have seen there are houses.  Even in the abandoned outports some people still maintain their former houses as summer homes or as temporary shelter when they are out fishing.  Dwellings are perched atop the most unhabital looking rocks, on islands miles from shore.  
                                          Salvage, a truly picturesque spot. 

                   I love all the shades of red on these two story sheds in Salvage. 

Gear stacked in the fishing sheds. 
The other day we took a day off from sailing and stayed put in a wonderful little hurricane hole called Puddingbag Cove. That's another thing, the place names here are just marvellous, Mosquito Harbour, (who would want to go there?) Heart's Delight, Ireland's Eye, Snook's Arm and Mickles Tickle to name a few. We went ashore in Puddingbag Cove and picked berries. The raspberries were ripe but the blueberries were about a week away from being ready.  We had them with some yogurt for dessert that night. In Salvage i saw a saskatoon bush and a pincherry shrub, there were apple trees around town and I couldn't tell if they were crab apples or just regular ones. 
                          Remnants of a drying stage in Puddingbag Cove

                                        Rock crystals that caught Barry's eye. 

The weather was warmed up and shirtsleeves and shorts were in order once we went ashore. The wind has deserted us these last couple of days and we are motoring in the fog today to visit the town of Trinity.  It is a historic site and there are regulations in place so that the town maintains it's look.  Everything is within walking distance so we are looking forward to exploring it. 

We are using " The Cruising Guide of Nfld." published by Members of the Cruising Club of America and so far it has been very helpful.
Ports or Anchorages
Musgrave Harbour  49*27' N X 53*57' W
Tied up to fishing dock, lots of water on dock closest to breakwater. 
Diesel available at gas station, 3 km Barry was given a ride 1 km into walk there. 
No info. on other services. 

Puddingbag Cove   49*06.2' N X 53*36.7' W 
Anchored in 6m very good holding mud bottom, lots of swing room, protected, execellent anchorage
Locally known as Safe Harbour, good raspberries and blueberries in season. 
Watch out for crab pots in the anchorage.
All services available 1.5nm by dinghy, floating dock to tie up to at fish plant or a local dock near grocery store. 

Salvage   48*41.4' N X 53*38.5' W
Tied up to floating dock.
Well marked entrance, attention needed, have a good look at charts before entering.
Lots of hiking trails. Bar with food within walking distance.
No other services. Grocery store approx. 5km away. 
Gorgeous setting, well worth a stop.

Tied up to floating dock reserved for pleasure craft. 
Laundry $1.25/load, showers $4, wharf fees $18.50 for our boat, water and electricity available.
Call Harbour Master after hours, he gave us a key to do laundry and access showers. 
Groceries about 1km away, all services available.
Replica of John Cabot's boat built in Bonavista at top of quay.