We were walking down the dock today and Barry spotted a boat load of sea urchins so we stopped to talk to the guys. In order to harvest them they have to dive for them to about 35 feet. Only a tiny amount on the inside is used for sushi. He said that 4 of them, 2 divers and 2 on the boat got about $1,500.00 worth in 4 hours. The fellow we were talking to showed us the tool they use to harvest the sea urchins and said that he had whales and sea lions that were swimming around him. The whales apparently leave the divers alone but the sea lions are very inquisitive and try and get the divers to pay attention to them by swimming very close to the divers and crowding them. He said that was a bit unnerving because they are so large.

This next picture is one of my impression of the U. S. of A. It is a parking lot. They love to pave everything down here. At every marina we have been to there has been acres and acres of parking lots. I guess when you drive everywhere in very large cars you need to have a place to put them. In one place they didn't even bother with sidewalks, they just painted lines on the hardtop, very practical actually.

We went to a casino today with the crew of another boat, both fellows are German by birth and were born shortly before the war. We heard a few stories about what it was like there and the one fellow had actually been in a concentration camp. His mother was non-Jewish but his father was Jewish and he said he was the only blond haired, blue eyed kid in the concentration camp, but because of his looks he was treated better than other Jewish children. It is interesting hearing other people's life stories and learning the American slant on the world.

The winds are still very high so we will be here tomorrow as well. We got a map of the area today and plan to go walk on a beach tomorrow. They have beautiful beaches here in Oregon.

We managed to find our way into Coos Bay, Oregon, with the help of the Coast Guard. After sailing all day we were approaching Coos Bay in the dark when we heard another sailboat contact the Coast Guard and request that they come out and help him find his way into the harbour. We probably wouldn’t have asked ourselves but since the Coast Guard was going to help someone in we decided we would join the procession into the harbour.
It was pretty harrowing, all the lights were very confusing in the dark you have no idea how far away you are from things and there are blinking red and green lights all over the place and shore lights that don’t have anything to do with the navigation are shining away. Then it got really rolly and the boat was tossing around from side to side in the dark and you can’t see the waves coming so you can brace yourself, then the Coast Guard guy is on the radio giving very helpful, but long detailed instructions about where you should go and what you should follow, I would remember about the first two instructions to tell Barry and then the following five would be gone forever from my memory. We followed the other sailboat that was following the Coast Guard boat and eventually got into the harbour safe and sound. I know it would have been a lot more nerve racking than it was if they hadn’t been around to help us.
We found out why the spinnaker ended up in the water yesterday. The end of the halyard (the line that pulls the sail up and down) attached to the top of the spinnaker had frayed in two, not a good thing. We pulled the other end out of the mast and will have to use our spare halyard until we get this one fixed. The thing that is perplexing is what caused the chafe, the halyard on the main sail in chaffing as well, but just not so quickly.
We spent the day washing and drying out the spinnaker and its sock, we had to get all the salt water off of them and then figure out how they could be dried. The spinnaker is a huge sail, the biggest that we have, fortunately it is relatively light so isn’t too heavy. We draped it all over the boat until it looked like the boat was wrapped in nylon. I think we will be spending more time here because they are predicting 35 knots and we aren’t keen to go out in that.
The dock we are moored at is full of fish boats and sail boats and the chief entertainment seems to be crabbing off the dock. People make a day of it, they come down to the dock with their lawn chairs, their picnic lunch and their crab nets. There were 2 older couples from Arizona here today; apparently they come here in the summer to get away from the heat. We talked to the crew of the other sailboats that are docked here as well as a deck hand on a 75 foot fishing boat that is going to Alaska. We bought a fresh tuna from one of the fish boats and Barry marinated it in a honey, mustard marinade and cooked up part of it for dinner. It was yummy, that was the first time we have cooked and eaten fresh tuna, and we have a lot more of it to figure out what to do with. I am thinking tuna casserole, or company. Hope all is well with everyone.

From Cat's-Paw IV at sea:

We are charging along in bright sunshine under spinn........spoke too soon. Just as I was writing that Barry yelled at me to "HELP". I scampered on deck and the spinnaker was in the water, not a pretty sight. I went up to the bow to try and haul it in and was making headway until it got under the boat. Then Barry came up and managed to get the heavy, heavy wet spinnaker on deck. We are not sure what happened but it looks like the sail parted at the head where it connects to the halyard. The halyard seems to be still at the top of the mast and I guess that means another trip up there in Coos Bay, hope it is calm.
Anyway we HAD a wonderful run under the spinnaker, 8 hours with no problems, in glorious sunshine, the sunshine has been sadly missing the past few days. The wind was picking up and when I finished my watch said to Barry that I was happy with what was happening with the sails but it was getting close to time to take the spinnaker down as the wind was building, guess we should have done it sooner than later!!!
We had a Coast Guard helicopter divert course and come right over us about 1000 this morning, and then Barry spotted a whale, so it has been a great day. We are headed to Coos Bay, Oregon and will most likely get there in the dark. We talked about it and if conditions are right we will attempt to enter the port after dark,that would be another first, I will let you know how we made out.

Well, I found out about Cape Disappointment. It was the English captain John Mears that was disappointed, he was disappointed in 1788 when he visited this coast line in search of the
"River of the West". He was unable to find a passage through the breakers so he named the headland, Cape Disappointment.

We spent the day exploring Newport, Oregon. We went down to old town and watched the sea lions try and sink the floats. They are huge animals and very territorial, making no bones about who is the boss and who gets to sleep on the floats. Then we down the to beach and strolled along the 5 mile long beach. Lovely gorgeous sand, the weather was cool and slightly foggy, apparently the area is know for that and people come here to escape the heat. Then we went to visit a restored lighthouse and then ambled across the bridge over the Yaquina River. You can see from the picture the jetty's they have on either side of the entrance to the river to calm the seas and keep the sands in line for entry to the port. After all that walking we stopped in at a local brewery and had a tour and partook in some free samples. The Rogue Brewing Company has made a success of microbrewing and is quite the place, they sell their beer in 20 oz. bottles, you get one bottle and you are good for quite some time.

We have arrived in Newport, Oregon. We did our 2nd overnight sail, this one was not nearly as spectacular as the first one as it was cloudy and there wasn't that beautiful moon or the wondrous stars to gaze at. On the 2:00 A.M. to 4:00 A.M. shift I got out my walkman ( I have not graduated to an MP3 player yet) and boogied to the Rankin Family and the Gumboots as Cat's-Paw IV did her own boogie in the Pacific swell. We got see the lights of various towns on the Oregon coast as we sailed past. It was a safe passage and the wind vane worked like a charm, all you have to do on watch is keep an eye out for other boats, and make sure the vane is steering the boat the way you want, adjusting as necessary.
We left Astoria at 6:30 A.M. on a Saturday and the Columbia River entrance was just saturated with small and large fishing boats. We had to slalom our way through them in the fog, you have to have steady nerves I tell ya. The fog cleared up once we had sailed over the bar, once again crossing was not a problem. We lost another boat hook as Barry was attempting to lower the windvane while underway (not an easy task). I guess that and the pair of clipon sunglasses I lost the other day is this month's sacrifice to the sea god.

A bridge over the Yaquina River in Newport Oregon

We had the crew of two other Bluewater Cruising boats come over and help us dock once we arrived, 2 Pieces of Eight and Willawaw. We are going to have dinner with them tonight. They are leaving in the morning but we will stay tomorrow and leave on Tuesday morning, depending on the weather. It was great to see them, they have been here for a day already so could give us the scoop on what we should see and where to catch the bus. It will be nice to exchange stories with them tonight.

This is the sight we saw as we rounded Cape Disappointment on the Columbia River, as we were about to cross the dreaded Columbia bar. When I think about the name I wonder who was disappointed and why? We went to the Maritime Museum in Astoria today and I didn't see any displays to tell me who or why, too bad!!
To take a step backwards, yesterday we motored most of the way from Gray's Harbour to Astoria. The wind came up with 15 miles to go and we actually sailed across the Columbia bar, it was glorious, sun beaming down on us the boat just humming along, fishing boats, trawlers, coast guard vessels zipping all around, great fun. The entrance to the Columbia River is dreaded up and down the west coast as one of the potentially most dangerous stretches of water, it has been called the graveyard of the Pacific. It is treacherous due to the tons of sand that are deposited at the mouth of the Columbia River each year, dredges are constantly scooping up the sand to keep the channels open. The shallowness of the entrance causes the waves from the open ocean to become very steep and close together. We made it in with no problems but we still have to cross the bar on the way out. Hopefully our charmed voyage will continue.
We spent the morning trying to purchase a cell phone. Don't get me started on how and why it was a problem, just suffice it to say that computers don't understand the problem of not living where the phone has to be activated and that the U.S. computers don't seem to think that citizens of another countryy could possibly be interested in buying a cell phone here. (big long heartfelt sigh). We do have a phone and I activated it tonight and although I had to ask someone what their zip code was so that I could activate the phone I am not in that zip code area, so I am unsure if the phone will ever work. I will keep you posted.
We are in a marina that is under the bridge that spans the Columbia River going from Oregon to Washington. There are huge ocean going freighters chugging past at all hours of the day and night. We had a great walk along the waterfront today seeing a lot of buildings that are still in use and then a bunch that have been converted to restaurants and shops, a very interesting mix. We are off to Newport, Oregon tomorrow, it will be another overnight sail so must get to bed.

We had a lazy day around town today, we went for a walk this morning and then I had a great nap after lunch. We had a tour of the tall ship in the harbour. We learned about how they kept track of where they were by using a navigation peg board. One fellow said he and his wife were on a 2 week learning vacation onboard and it only cost them $350, it would be a great vacation. One girl talked about getting over her fear of heights when she was climbing up the ropes to let down the sails. We purchased some crab for dinner but it wasn't nearly as good as the ones we caught when we were on the west coast of Vancouver Island.
We will head to Astoria tomorrow, we have checked out the tide table and the weather and have a definite plan of when we have to leave and when we hope to arrive. Time to hit the hay and get some more rest.

We survived our fist overnight sail. It was pretty tiring but there were moments of absolute beauty. We left Neah Bay at 1030 on Aug. 14 and arrived in Gray's Harbour 125 miles further south at 4:30 P.M. on Aug. 15. We did two hour shifts all day and night. We sailed almost all the way and someone who wanted to sail with us from Neah Bay motored sailed all the way here and arrived at 5:00 A.M. We sailed on a close reach most of the night so although it wasn't a downwind romp we didn't have to tack back and forth and went in a striaght line for most of the trip. We would have still been out there if we had had to tack all the way.
The trouble with two hour shifts is that you barely get downstairs and take your stuff and climb into bed and it's time to get out, especially when you lie there trying to block out the sounds of the sails slapping around and the gear clanging on the deck. I think I may have got 4 hours sleep total through the 30 hours.
We had one hair raising incident, a fast U.S military aircraft buzzed us not once but three times. He came diving down at the boat and then you could see the afterburners kick in as he pulled up to turn for another run. I have no clue what it was about, but he just went away after the third fly by, unbelievable. We just kind of stared at him as he zoomed around the sky. They must have more money than brains if they don't have any better things to do than buzz poor innocent Canadian sailors.
I was on shift, by myself, in the middle of the night as the moon rose. It was absolutely gorgeous, it was in the third quarter and after it came up it lit up the whole ocean. When we are sailing the only light that is on is the masthead light, and the instruments, compass and GPS, (so you can steer) so it is pretty dark out there. As I was gazing up at all the stars, I couldn't help but think of the thousand of other sailors who had experienced the same thing. Imagine what the guys on Christopher Columbus's ships were thinking in the dark hours of the night. At least I know where I am going and have a pretty good idea what I am going to see when I get there, they didn't even have a clue about what was over the horizon.
We are going to stay here for two nights to make sure we catch up on our rest. As we were walking around today we saw a sign for free tours on a tall ship so I think we will take that in. Catch you later.

Heading into a fog bank on a windless day.
From August 14
We arrived in Neah Bay last night after a long day of motoring from Port Angeles. Most of the day was spent in fog that would lift every once in awhile, but we are getting lots of practise using our radar. We sailed in the last 4 miles when the wind picked up. There was 1 other Bluewater boat here, Toketi, so we had a pleasant happy hour on their boat and met a British couple that are sailing in a 33 foot boat that are on year 7 of their cruise around the world. Those 2 boats are planning on sailing directly to San Francisco and are going to wait here for another day hoping for better weather, it is galing just north of San Francisco. The weather forecast for our jaunt to Gray's Harbour looks favourable so we will leave later on this morning. It will take us over 24 hours to get there so we will experience our first complete night sail aboard Cat's-Paw IV. If you would like to follow our position reports please go to
http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/tracker.php?ident=VE8BL

We left Sidney this morning at 0808 (I think that must be good luck or something). We motored down to Victoria as there was no wind but it picked up once we were close to Victoria, then the fog set in. We did fine in the fog, radar is wonderful, until we got close to Port Angeles and then when we were past the GPS point that Barry had put in for the entrance and I couldn't see anything, there were fog horns blowing, a huge ferry went bellowing past us at 20 knots and I still couldn't see more than 200 meters, I got a bit freaked out, to put it mildly. Oh yeah and just before that we had started the motor and I noticed there was no water coming out of the exhaust, so we shut it off and we were sailing into the harbour and Barry couldn't find the GPS adapter for our chart plotting program so we relying on green flashes on the radar. Well Barry figured it was the impeller, that was causing the problem with the engine.

So we anchored in the harbour and proceeded to learn how to change the impeller. We got the instructions out and found the new impeller, took the cover off the raw water pump, took the old beat up useless impeller out (see picture above) and the piece of the impeller that was stuck in the discharge line and proceeded to try and put the new impeller on. You guessed it, it didn't fit, SHIT, what next!!!! We looked at the old impeller and figured out that new impeller screw was bigger than the old one and it wouldn't fit in the water pump shaft slot that it was designed for. REALLY BIG SHIT. but wait, could we take the old screw out and put it in the new impeller, yes indeed, we could and VOILA, when we turned the engine on water came flying out the back like it is supposed to, yippee, We then went and checked in to the U.S. and I calmed down somewhat, I am still a bit rattled as is Barry I am sure after being hollered at, very loudly.

After checking in we walked downtown and loaded up on citrus fruit, garlic, eggs, chicken and beef, all substances which you are not allowed to import into the U.S. Then we hit the Dairy Queen for products to calm my nerves, a peanut buster parfait did the trick, stopped off at U.S. customs to get out U.S. cruising permit then strolled back to the boat. I wish I had had the camera with us because we saw the most unusual metal sculptures of birds that were attached to the top of some pilings, there was a pelican, a seagull and a heron, they were gorgeous.

Here is the crew for our Bon Voyage Sail. As we motored up to Arbutus Ridge this morning I bemoaned the fact that there was no wind and it was going to be boring for our visitors this afternoon. After a lovely lunch on the dock, the wind was very obliging and picked up enough to make it interesting but, I hope, not frightening for our guests. It was a gorgeous day and even though we had to tack upwind to our slip in Sidney no one seemed to mind too much. It was great to have Barry's 2 sisters and his Mom onboard as well as Sherran's partner Doug. It couldn't have been a more fitting end to our stay on the west coast.

The boom behaved itself, although we discovered that it is almost a foot longer than the old one and it is going to take a bit of getting used to. Barry is going to have a few extra bangs on his head before he figures out exactly how much longer it is.

We have a big day tomorrow so I'd better get some rest.

Well, we have said all year that we were going to leave on or about Aug. 10 and today is Aug. 10 and we are still here, but things are looking up. We have a new boom and it is on the boat and semi-functional. The semi is because we are still waiting for our boom vang, but it is supposed to be put on the boat this afternoon, so theoretically we could leave after it is installed, but we are not going to.

We still have to get our car up to its’ retirement pasture on the back forty at Kim’s (Barry’s sister) place near Duncan. We have arranged to sail up to where Barry’s Mom lives have lunch with Barry’s family and then sail back with one or more of his sister’s and then Kim will drive the car up to Duncan and park it. We figured this would be a nice way to say goodbye and we will be able to take the new boom for a test run. We are planning to leave on Saturday morning which will be the 12 but I figure well within our projected departure date of “on or about Aug. 10”. It will also avoid the dreaded sailor’s superstition of never leaving a port on a Friday, I know, I know, it is just a superstition but I just don’t want to start out what may be a trip around the world on the wrong foot.

Our driver’s licenses have arrived, we got our typhoid medication today, I picked up enough emergency rations to last a couple of weeks, Barry got some plywood and 2 X 4’s in case we get a hole in the boat and I think we are ready to go. I am sure there are some sort of spare parts we will discover we should have had but I think we have enough to get by in a pinch. We met a bunch of boats last weekend at the Bluewater Rendezvous that have the same basic itinerary that we have so I am sure we will bump into them in various ports.

Now that I know we can leave on Saturday, I have stopped being so anxious about it and now I am just getting excited. The not knowing when we were going to leave was killing me. If you want to get in touch with us after Saturday contact us on our boat e-mail ve8bl@winlink.org only text in your messages, no pictures and no attachments please. We will check in to our yahoo account when we are near and internet hookup. I will updating the blog, as I did around the island, so you will be able to follow our travels if you wish.

What is wrong with this picture???

We are still waiting for our boom to be fixed, and since it is a fairly major piece of a sailboat's equipment we won't leave until it is safely and securely put back on the boat. They came and took it away last Monday and it may be ready today but another piece, the boom vang, will not be ready until Tuesday so we have to wait until then for our boom.

The other hold up is our driver's licence, and this one is our fault. When we changed over to B.C. licences last year they would only issue us a 2 year licence, which means our's expire next year. At Barry's sister's (Kim's) suggestion we went in to see if they would renew them early and HORRAY, they would, we now have licences that are good until 2011. The only problem is that you couldn't get the right away, they would mail them to you and it would take about a week to get them. We went in last Tuesday to renew them so I figure with the holiday we won't get them until Wed. or Thur. so we are going to wait for them.

Waiting is not one of the things that I do very well. I should go organize a track meet or a bingo or something to keep me busy for a week. We have gotten all the things that we can think of that we need to do, done this week, I am sure there are a million other things that we should have done but didn't think about.

We are going to a Bluewater rendeyvous for the long weekend so the socializing should make the time go by.. It will be nice to talk to all the friends we made over the winter and see how others are making out in their departure plans. Cat's Paw IV will get quite a few comments and questions about her boomless status I am sure. Hope all of you have a grand August long weekend.

We had a great visit with our kids and grandkids. It was super to see them all. We had 4 adults and 2 kids sleeping on the boat for 3 days and we all co-existed in great style. Heather and her 2 kids arrived first and were here for 5 days and then Trish joined us for 3 days. We swam, played in the sand, visited the petting zoo, collected shells and caught minnows and crabs, explored tide pools and saw otters and starfish, caught more minnows and generally had a holiday by the ocean. On our way over to an anchorage we had the privilege of seeing a pod of killer whales that was a highlight for me. There was a young one with them and he broached 3 times, marvelous creatures.

Cassidy and Elijah were a joy to have around; they were very well behaved children. We went to a planetarium called the Centre of the Universe and took a tour around the facility. The tour guide even commented on how good the kids were. In 1918 the telescope at the planetarium was the largest in the world. It is open to the public until 11:00 P.M. and then is used for the rest of the night by astronomers for research they are doing.

I had just gotten used to having a crowd on the boat and they all went home. I suffered from pangs of loneliness for the next few days. I am really going to miss my family once we leave. With about 2 weeks before we depart we are doing all the last minute things that have to be done. My list swells and diminishes like the tide day by day, more about that later.

Juan De Fuca
We stayed in Bamfield on Tuesday because they were forecasting gale force winds of 40 knots for Juan De Fuca and rain. Today was basically the same forecast except they said the gale was going to come up later in the day so we would have more time to make it to shelter. We got up at 0415 and were underway at 0445 just after dawn. There was not wind for the first 6 hours so we motored at 5.5 knots, then about 1100 it started to pick up and we started sailing about 1230. It was blowing about 25 knots around 1500 but as it was with us it wasn't too bad, a real ride, surfing down the waves, doing over 7 knots steady. I was watching the GPS and it was recording over 8.5 knots when we were surfing and a couple of times I saw over 9 knots. By this time we only had the main up and we were just boogieing. We dropped anchor at 1730 in a nice sheltered spot about 10 miles southwest of Victoria, we will be able to make it home easily tomorrow.

We have had a relaxing week cruising around the Broken Group, a set of islands in Barkley Sound. One day we had a very persistent hummingbird buzzing around the boat, I think it liked the brightly coloured things around the boat. You would be sitting reading and all of a sudden you would hear a buzz, buzz as it bombed around the cockpit, they are quite the bird. One day we went fishing and actually caught three fish, they were small rockfish, but we kept them and ate them for supper. The next day I was reading some signs at a National Park campsite and discovered that they are a protected species and there was no way we should have ate them, OOPS!!
We cruised down to the eastern edge of the islands outside the park and there was an island that had been completely logged, except for one layer of trees around the edge. There was a logging road on the island and Barry's wish was to walk down a logging road so over we went. It was a pretty sorry site, there were old white stumps everywhere and hacked down bits of trees in piles, there had been no noticeable attempt to reforest the area, if you can believe it though, when we landed there was a For Sale sign posted just on the edge of the old logging road. I wonder who would think any sane person would want to buy that very ugly island.
Tonight we are in Bamfield, just at the southwest tip of Vancouver Island. We arrived here about noon today and spent the day walking to a lovely sandy beach. We had a great time strolling up and down the beach and scrambling over the rocks. Barry thinks the pain killers the doctor gave him have kicked in so was able to walk the distance without too much pain, we will see how his body is tomorrow.
We hope to go around the corner of Vancouver Island tomorrow and head down the Straits of Juan De Fuca. It has been quite foggy the last few mornings and they are predicting gales for the Straits overnight tonight so we will have to listen to the weather forecast in the morning to figure out if we want to head east or not. Heather is arriving with the grandkids next Saturday so we don't have to rush and can stay another 3 days and still be back in Sidney on time.

We are staying put today in a bay in Barkley Sound in what they call the Broken Group, it is part of the Pacific Rim National Park. It is blowing like stink out there and we decided just to stay safe and secure, there has been a gale warning for the last three days and it finally materialized today. We are planning on exploring around here the next few days, there are lots of little spots we could visit for lunch and then find a good anchorage for the night. We anchored at the end of the bay and there was a big tree floating there, we were a bit close and then when high tide came along and the wind came up, the tree started turning around and got rather close to us. We pulled anchor and went further away and re-anchored. Then tree did a 180 and turned completely around and it might have come pretty close to the boat if we had stayed put. It is rather big and still has all it's branches attached so I am really glad we moved rather than get tangled up with that thing. We have the end of the bay to ourselves, last night a group of ravens had a convention in a tree, first there were just 2 and they looked and sounded like they were having a good old chat and then another flew up and then another and there were 4 ravens sitting on one dead tree branch. It did make you wonder what they were up to.
Yesterday I walked to the other side of the island. The path was not very well marked and I made a couple of wrong turns but found my way eventually. Barry stayed aboard as his hip was killing him.

Our guide book said there was a sea cave down the beach, so I wandered down there and found the cave. It was fascinating, with a small beach in front at low tide, steep jagged rocks on both sides that were slippery so one had to be extra careful where they put their feet when scrambling down into the cave. The ceiling of the cave was covered with ferns growing out of the rocks, the cave went back quite a ways, about 30-40 feet ( I am not great with distances) getting smaller and darker the further back you went into it. I didn't see any dragons or sea monsters but it was certainly a place where they could live.

Well Barry got to see a specialist about his hip. Apparently he isn't nearly crippled enough to be considered for a new hip. The docotr said unless you can barely walk you are wasting my time and he wouldn't consider it unless Barry was over sixty and that would be borderline. We half expected that answer but it still is pretty disappointing. He said, so what you are sore, you're old things wear out, live with it. He prescribed him some fancy anti-inflamitories that are supposed to help. At least Barry didn't have to fly back from Mexico or somewhere in the South Seas to hear that kind of news. Ho Hum.
I spent a couple of days in Tofino cleaning and drying out the boat then I rented a bike and cycled out to Long Beach for a day. It was a gorgeous day and I sat on the beach after strolling about a kilometer splashing my feet in the surf, and watched the surfers do their stuff, most of them weren't much good but there were a couple that knew what they were doing and it was a pleasure to watch them. I also went up to Radar Hill where there used to be a radar station just after the war. It was a huge uphill climb, I walked a lot of the way up, but the view was fantastic, the ride down was a lot of fun, thank heavens the bike had good brakes!!!
We are in the process of circumnavigating Meares Island, there are snow covered mountains up an inlet that we plan to explore tomorrow. There is no place to anchor so we will go up the inlet and back down all in one day. It is only about 7 miles long, we have the dinghy down at the moment and hopefully we can tow it while we go up the inlet and I can get some pictures of the boat with snow capped mountains behind. The dinghy is down because we put out the crab trap and we are hoping to have crab for dinner. There were a gazillion crab traps all around Tofino and we had to slalom around them. Barry had the computer on to help with the navigating and he would say go left and I would have to head into a mass of crab traps floating all mish mash everywhere, I am sure my hair is a shade grayer tonight. It is sunny and warm though and we are enjoying every minute of the great weather.

June 17 - Supreme spa conditions were found at Hot Springs Cove in Clayquot Sound. The water in the hot springs was about 50 degrees Celcius, just perfect hot bath temperature, and there was even a hot shower to be had if you sat on a log under the water spilling off the 10 foot high rocks. Barry had a therapeutic massage on his hip under the shower, seeing that it was a 2 km walk down a wonderful boardwalk to get there, he needed it. There was even sea weed available if you wanted one of those ultra expensive sea weed wraps I always hear about. P.S. the boards on the boardwalk are adorned with carvings from boats that have visited. It was great entertainment to read the boardwalk as you strolled along in the rain forest.
The hot springs were much appreciated after a couple of long days sailing. Barry says that it was cold, wet, miserable weather. One evening we pulled into Friendly Cove at 1015 P.M. or 2215 in sailor talk. Friendly Cove is in Nootka Sound, most recently infamous for being the home of the urbanized killer whale Luna, who met an untimely demise earlier this spring when she had an unfortunate encounter with a tug boat. Friendly Cove is also famous as being the place in which Captain George Vancouver and Spain's representative Captain Juan Bodega Y Quadra signed the "Nootka Convention" in 1794 which became the basis for the Freedom of the Seas Doctrine. The early exploration and exploitation of the west coast has many of it's roots in this area and I am fascinated by it.
We did not have a chance to explore Friendly Cove as we arrived so late and then left early next morning to tackle Estanvan Point. I think it almost got the better of us, it was a steady 25 knots on the nose, gusting to 30, and it rained on and off all day. The boat held up well, the reinforced boom showed no signs of buckling or being unhappy in any manner, the only unhappy crew member was the Captain who when he took over his shift at 4:00 P.M. turned on the motor and motored into Hot Springs Cove, not giving up the helm in case the over enthusiastic crew attempted to sail again.
The next morning we awoke to sunshine and the Captain was all gung ho to get Bob to Tofino, but then the skies darkened, it started to rain and the wind howled, the Captain refused to move. The hot springs is a big business and boats come in all day with tourists from Tofino so Bob managed to negotiate a ride back with one fellow and Cat's-Paw IV and her diminished crew stayed put, visiting the hot springs and relaxing the rest of the day.
Today we had a pretty tame day, motoring into an inlet where a trail was reported to go to a lovely sandy beach. The tradition of the Lange Short Cut once again reared it's ugly head. We found the beginning of the trail and a group of kayakers who had come from the beach reported that it was very muddy and a few of their group had gotten boot full's going over it. I saw another trail that was clearly marked so I confidently set off down this trail, thinking I had found a better alternative route, ignoring Barry's comments that the kayakers had not come from this trail, 35 minutes later the doubt's were setting in and at 40 minutes I admitted defeat and we turned around. Barry really wanted to see the beach so after getting back to where we had started we set off down a 25 min. trail that took us 45 min. to walk, partly because of the mud and the maneuvering you had to do around it and partly due to Barry's by now much inflamed hip acting up. I felt extremely horrible to have
put him through a needless hour of hiking up and down and around just because I thought I knew a better way, #@%$#!
Although conditions out on the water haven't been all that one could desire we managed to keep up crew morale with a number of tasty and tantalizing meals. My brother Bob who's culinary skills up until now have admittedly only branched out to barbecuing and cooking KD or Kraft Dinner outdid himself the other day by preparing and serving, UNDER SAIL, a full course roast beef dinner including gravy, Sailor Bob indeed!! When we were blasting away into the 25 knot winds the other day I thought I would see if I could bake in those conditions, and managed to produce hot sour cream cranberry scones, that were inhaled by the cold wet crew. ( There was evidence of my baking on the floor, on the counter top, in the sink and pretty much everywhere once I was done, but I think it was worth it.)
We are headed into Tofino tomorrow. Barry has an appointment with an orthopedic specialist about his hip on Wednesday, so he will take a bus back to Victoria while I clean up and dry out Cat's-Paw IV in Tofino. Hopefully he will be back on Thursday evening and we can continue on with out Van Isle Voyage on Friday.

Tuesday, June 13 - Spa conditions prevail today, moist warm breeze blowing gently on your face, we are going to have wonderful skin by the end of the day. This has been the norm for the last few mornings, fog and light winds, then after lunch the fog lifts and the sun shines. We motored into our anchorage at Dixie Cove last night, there was bright sunshine, showing off nearby snow topped mountains. When we set the anchor we checked the temperature and it was a balmy 24 degrees, wow. Then we put the thermometer in the water to see if it was worth going for a swim and it said 18 degrees. Bob did not want to believe it, he thought my thermometer was malfunctioning. I did the toe test and it seemed a lot warmer than the last time we went in (the water was 10 degrees then). Bob and I donned our wet suits and in we went. Bob stayed in and swam for about 45 min. I was in for about 1/2 hour and swam and snorkeled getting eyeball to eyeball with some starfish and sunfish, great fun. I wanted to tell you about the other day when we were in Winter Harbour. We had been in town and then motored around the corner to anchor, so we were by ourselves. The sun was beating down and we were eating crab and drinking wine in the cockpit. It was so much fun to just chuck the crab shells over your shoulder into the water without a care in the world. CRACK, CHOMP, CHUCK was how it went for about a half and hour. I bought a roast when we were in Port MacNeil and we are going to eat it today, but Barry insists we have to cut some raw bits off so we can catch some more crab. We haven't caught any fish yet so hopefully we will remember to put a line in the water and maybe something will bite it.

June 11 - Well a lot has happened since the last update. After makeshift repairs on the boom in Port Hardy with angle iron bolted to both sides we sailed across the Queen Charlotte Strait to the mainland just opposite Port Hardy. That was a test for the boom, it must have passed because that evening Barry decided we could continue on with our trip and head around the island. The next morning we headed for Bull Harbour in order to wait for a good time to cross the notorious Nahwitti Bar. The water gets really shallow here and the ocean swells get really large and if there is any wind it can be quite dangerous. We woke up at 0500 and were underway about 0520 headed for the bar. It was very calm but we did have a bit of current against the tide and it was a very bouncy half hour. Then we rounded Cape Scott at 0945 and headed SOUTH, yahoo. We are now going with the wind and the current.

We had a terrific if rather moderate sail to Winter Harbour where we spent the night. I was getting tired and a bit owly so went to bed shortly after eating at 2130. Today we are going past the Brooks Peninsula otherwise known as the Cape of Storms. It was fairly decent as we sailed out of Winter Harbour and as we got closer the wind picked up and we reduced sail in the main. Now we are cruising down the Brooks Peninsula and headed for a lovely anchorage close to a sandy beach.

We saw a black bear strolling along a beach without a care in the world. Just a few minutes ago some porpoises came to zoom along beside the boat for awhile. They looked to be a different species from the ones around Sidney so I will have to look them up. We are now about half way around the island and I am hoping to do a bit more exploring on shore the next few days. All is well onboard and the sun has just come out so I am going to go on deck to enjoy.

e discovered bigger problems with our equipment yesterday. We have some hairline cracks in our boom where the boom vang attaches. This is not a good thing. We are now in Port Hardy attempting to give it a temporary fix. Barry and my brother Bob are going to screw some pieces of steel on the boom to reinforce it. We will not be continuing on with our trip around the island with a crippled boom, we have called our rigger and he says that it is going to break sooner or later if a lot of stress is put on it. Since my brother is only here for a short time we plan to sail up to the Broughton Island group and explore around there. We will not be sailing in big winds and putting very little stress on the boom which means sailing with just the head sail or in light winds only with the main up. We are all a bit disappointed with the turn of events but better now than in the middle of the Pacific.

Barry has to go back to Sidney to see the orthopedic guy about his hip on June 21 , so the plan is for him to take the boom back with him and get a new one made while he is in seeing the doctor. We will have to evaluate our time schedule after that and see if we can make it around the island in time to see our daughter Heather and our grandchildren on July 8.

On the positive side we spotted our first whales yesterday and saw more today. We were pretty far away but watching them blow and following their progress is really exciting. They are really magnificent creatures. My brother brought his wet suit with him and went in for a swim last night, he was not prepared for how cold it was but did stay in the water for about 1/2 an hour and did some swimming. I am not sure if he will go back in again or not. The air temperature was too cold for me to go in so I want him to go in again when I am ready to brave the elements. I imagine I can convince him to come in with me, he is not a wimp, being brought up north of 56.

We spent the day in a beautiful anchorage and as well as seeing whales Bob and I went for an up and down hike across the island, then we all went to visit a salmon farm. That was really interesting, the two guys working there came out when we climbed onto the walkway and explained how the operation worked. The little salmon were amazing just shooting out of the water so their whole bodies were in the air, it was fun to watch. Last night we went ashore and I had my first B.C. campfire. The moon was brilliant lighting up the whole bay and as we tended the fire we sang a few campfire songs, a wonderful way to end an informative and eventful day.

We picked up my brother in Port MacNeil on Monday. We both timed it perfectly, he got there on the bus at 3:00 P.M. and we arrived about 3:30. We did some grocery shopping, laundry, had 4 minute showers and took on water. It is a very pretty spot and everything was very handy to the marina. We even were allowed to push the shopping cart from the store to the boat, they would pick it up at the top of the ramp at the end of the day, very convenient.
We left the next day and motored out for a ways and then tacked into a very light wind all morning. About 2:00 P.M. the wind picked up as forecast and then we were sailing in 25-30 knots with meter high waves. Bob didn't feel ill at all and had no problems going down below to look for stuff, very encouraging. We then beat into the wind and waves for 6 hours to reach our destination. We motored the last 3 nm into a gorgeous anchorage that we have all to ourselves except for the loon and the bald eagle. There is a white beach close by and Bob and I plan to go swimming later. We are going to stay here for a day as the forecast is for more of the same and we don't want to get bashed around all day. We had some equipment malfunctions yesterday in the breeze, one which was fixed with no problem the other may take a bit of engineering to get it to be whole again.
We set out the crab trap last night. We had eaten t-bone steak for supper and after chewing diligently on the bones we put them in the carrot bag and stuffed them in the crab trap. When we pulled it up this morning lo and behold there were 5 crabs gnawing on the bones, we ate 4 of them for breakfast, a super start to our day.

We are headed to Port MacNeil to pick up my brother. He will be with us for about 10 days, we will drop him off in Tofino. We had an early start at 0615, the earliest yet. Yesterday we landed in a small cove that was renowned for it's crabs. We caught 9 and ate the only 2 legal sized ones, they were delicious. We have yet to have an anchorage to ourselves. We get to a spot about 5:00 P.M. or so and think that we might have it to ourselves and then someone else pulls in a little later. Oh well, apparently on the west side of the island there are less boats. There is a lot of logging that is going on around here, at these lovely secluded anchorages you here the whine and growl of heavy equipment on shore, you can't see anything because the trees are huge, but you can hear it. You can tell what areas have been logged, the trees are a different colour than the natural vegetation. I haven't gotten close enough to figure out what kind of trees they are planting but they seem to be either cedar or some type of deciduous tree. The other day we stopped at this little island to look at some WW2 gun placements. It was amazing, this small island and the amount of work that had been done on the top of a hill. There were lots of cement and brick buildings, that are all covered in moss now. They had even made cement stairs, these really fascinated me. I have pictures and hopefully will be able to load them in Port MacNeil. All is well, we are having fun, hope you are to.

June 2 - We had a great sail today. Went through Hole in the Wall without any problems, we had more trouble going through Active Pass one time. Then we headed up to an great anchorage on Sonora Island. The mountains aren't so high here but still there are very high hills. We encountered about 25 knots of wind going into the anchorage, it was funneling down a valley.

We went to set the crab trap today, it was about an hour and a half before low tide so I figured it should be a good time. We set it by a sandy beach and about and hour after low tide I went to get it. There were 2 crabs in it, EUREKA!!! I went by myself to check the net and Barry had said to just leave it in the water until tomorrow morning. I decided to take the crabs back to show Barry, but I didn't bring anything to put them in so I just put one in the front of the dinghy, the other one held on for dear life and I decided to leave it in the trap. The stupid crab in the dinghy went under the floor boards, so I spent the whole way back to the boat, about 3 km, worrying that he was going to come up and bite my butt, yuk. Once I got back, Barry said that we had to deflate the dinghy to get the crab out, so we had to take the motor off, bring the dinghy on board and deflate it until we could get the floorboard out and voila, one crab for dinner. We put the dinghy back in the water and Barry went back and collected the other one and we had them both for dinner. Next time, I will remember a bucket!! The crab that crawled under the seat, note the deflated dinghy
What a hoot, I don't think Barry was too impressed though. We don't have any other fresh or frozen meat on board so I guess we will have to figure out what we can catch tomorrow, maybe pick mussels or maybe catch a salmon.

May 31 we had our first feast off the sea. We collected oysters at low tide and barbequed them. Then we waited to see if they had PSP, a disease that will cause your tongue to go numb, then your fingers and toes and then you die. It was quite exciting waiting. We did not die and then the next morning we heard on the VHF that some parts of the fishing area are closed due to red tide, which causes PSP, we must find out what area we are in. The oysters were delicious.
Tonight we are having a big fruit salad. Barry looked in one locker and a grapefruit had gone bad and an orange and the pineapples I had in there were overripe so we are eating all the fruit that needs to be eaten. Live and learn about storing food.
The scenery here is spectacular, big mountains coming right out of the sea, there is still snow on a few, one inlet we could have gone up ended in a glacier. We stopped in one spot today and clamored up a hill to look at a waterfall. I hope Barry's hip is not too sore tomorrow. Tonight we stern anchored, that is tied off to shore. The sea bed is so steep at the edges that you have to get to close to the shore when you anchor so if you tie off to shore you will not swing into the shallow water.
Tomorrow we are headed into some rapids to get us into Johnstone Strait. You have to time the tidal rapids just right so that you go through at slack tide, otherwise there are eddies and currents and overfalls that can get you into a lot of trouble. We have spent quite awhile going through the charts, tide books and guides to help us figure out how to navigate around here. Everyday brings a new adventure and new things to learn, isn't life grand.

We had a wonderful time visiting with the Holmes family. We took Catherine, Tegan and Blair sailing on Monday. It was pretty blustery out about 20 knots with some chop. Blair was a big help helping me hank on the staysail and Tegan took the wheel and kept us going in the right direction. Then unfortunately Blair was stricken with rosario mintosis, a disease which can be brought on by seasickness preceded by the chewing and swallowing of one too many pink mints, it wasn't pretty. He recovered once we anchored for supper and held his spaghetti down as we returned to Campbell River (that was a bit of a worry). Catherine shared the helmsman's duties with Tegan and was suffering sympathy sickness with Blair. She wisely did not consume any pink mints before sailing and her sphincter remained nervous and would not relax.

Today we headed off into the wild blue yonder. We have a week before we have to meet my brother in Port Hardy and we are just going to mosey around. We crossed Desolation Sound under bright sunshine and anchored in Squirrel Cove ( you've got to love these place names). It was very satisfying to be in Desolation Sound, we have heard and read about it for years and now we are here. There is a plethora of islands and the coastal mountain range with the snow still on the peaks adds a beautiful backdrop. Barry said that everyday there is a new anchorage, he will worry about whether or not it is good holding ground and whether the wind will switch around and blow us around. We won't get a chance to know this area as well as we did Great Slave Lake, hopefully the guide books we have will steer us to the good spots.

Today is Day 4 of our Van Isle Voyage. We are in Campbell River visiting our Yellowknife sailing buddies, the Holmes family. We arrived yesterday and are staying today to take them for a sail. We really enjoy their company.

From just north of Nanaimo we sailed to Blubber Bay, which is on the north end of Texada Island. Apparently they used to hunt whales out of Blubber Bay, but no more, now it has a cement plant at one end of the bay and there were a couple of fish boats tied up that ran their generators all night so it wasn't a quiet anchorage. We had a lovely spinnaker run up to Blubber Bay ( I really like saying that) under sunny skies and with the wind behind us it was warm and wonderful. Yesterday we motored most of the way to Campbell River and then squeezed into a spot at the dock amoung huge fishing boats. Barry backed the boat out today because there was no room to turn around. We moved to a lovely marina, but it is more than twice the cost of the other place for moorage (ouch).

While we were in Blubber Bay we watched the sun set, Where we were moore in Sidney we did not see many sunsets and this one was pretty nice. I plan to watch a whole bunch more in the next 6 weeks.

OKAY so today is DAY 1 of our very own Van Isle 360. It wasn't a very exciting start because we basically motored all day. There was no wind. We are now in a little bay just north of Nanaimo, B.C. hope to be in Campbell River tomorrow.

I have done a couple of high tech things just lately. The first thing is that I once again have the capacity to be the scourge of the airwaves. We have been reporting in to the Great Northern Boaters Net. It is every day at 0800 PDT or 1500 UTC and it is on 3.870 megahertz on the LSB, so if any of you can here us we could talk after the net is over, about 0845. It is nice to be in touch with other boaters.

The big news is that you can see where we are going. On this site

http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/tracker.php?ident=VE8BL

you can find out where were are. I can only update once a day, so have decided to do it in the morning about 1000 so if you check that site about noon everyday you should be able to see how far we have gone from the day before and exactly where we are. I think it is so neat. I am out on the water and can e-mail in and anyone who wants can look up and find us. WOW, who would have thunk it.

The bay we are in has some old cottages on the one side and on the other there are these very expensive looking homes. I was wondering what the residence think of the cottages. Barry says it gives the place some character, what do you think?

Tomorrow will be DAY 1 of our trip around Vancouver Island. We figured out the windlass problem (corroded wiring) and it took us 2 days to fix it. This afternoon we got the windlass motor back from being reconditioned and Barry put it back on the boat and it seems to work just fine, keep your fingers crossed. This should be a lot of fun, we plan to be away for about 6 weeks. This is a practise run for when we head to Mexico. Things should be interesting. I am planning on catching a few crabs and finding some oysters.

We headed off to our Bluewater Crusing rendeyvous on Friday morning. We had loaded up with groceries and got the boat looking spiffy and were ready to start our trip around the island on Monday morning.

The rendeyvous was a lot of fun. There were tons of people there, we figured over 100 Bluewater people and over 45 boats. I could not believe how close people anchored to one another. One boat dropped anchor pretty close to us, when the wind blew it wasn't a problem, but when there was no wind and boats were facing different ways, we came pretty close to the guy..

We had appetizers aboard one boat on Saturday night and it was so crowded you couldn't move, then more people kept showing up and pretty soon there were over 30 people sitting in their dinghys around the boat, it was marvelous. The next day we got together for breakfast, there was a treasure hunt, a boat tour in the afternoon and then a pot luck in the evening. It was super to get to see all the other boats and see what innovative things people have done to their boat and what the interior layouts are like. Most seemed to have more storage room than ours, but oh well!!! In the evening at the pot luck it started raining but that didn't put people off, up went the tarps and the food was absolutely delicious. We got to meet the members from Vancouver that are planning to leave this year as well, there are 8 boats from the island and 3 boats from Vancouver that are off so I am sure we will see each other up and down the coast.

We had a couple of friends have trouble with their anchor windlasses when we were in the harbour. I kept thinking, okay there are 2 with problems, who is going to be the third. Well you guessed it, we went to wind in our anchor this morning and NOTHING, NADA, ZILCH. The &^%#*!% think wouldn't work. My husband said we should go back to Sidney to get it fixed because we would have a vehicle there and we know who to contact to get it fixed, if we couldn't so back we came. I am REALLY choked!!!!!!! This is supposed to be Day 1 of our trip around the island and we are still here, well, I guess that's boating.

Anyway we got some really good practise coming back. It was absolutely pea soup out there. You couldn't see 200 meters in front of you. We came back into Sidney steering a compass heading and using the GPS to set waypoints. We had the radar going to make sure the freighters didn't sneak up on us and keep track of the other boats that were close by. We started the computer and used our electronic mapping to make sure where we were. It was a bit alarming when you started looking around because all of a sudden you were 20 degrees off course. We had a power boat come up behind us and ask us where we were going, when he found out we were headed back here he asked if he could follow us, little did he know this was the first time we had actually done this. Barry and I did half the trip each on the helm so I got to practise the navigation and check out the radar. At first Barry was down below and he hadn't put a course in or anything. He was mucking around turning on the computer and setting up the radar, I was getting more and more agitated and louder and louder in my demands for a course. I couldn't see a thing and was wandering around on the course I had picked 20 degrees to one side and then 30 to the other side, it was like get me a safe course NOW. We made it without any problems, really good practise.

Barry spent the rest of the day trying to fix that frickin windlass. I hope someone can give us a hand tomorrow, like there aren't going to be a zillion others with problems that happened on the long weekend. OH WELL, these things happen. I just have to be back before July 8.

We have been busy refinishing our teak on the boat. We redid the cabin floor and now we are doing the teak around the 2 main hatches. We took the day off on Friday and went for a sail then on Sat. we sailed up to the dock at Barry's Mom's house and spent Mother's Day with her. When asked what she would like for Mother's Day she said she wanted some cupboards she had bought for her garage assembled so we spent the afternoon putting three large cupboards together. They all stand up, but the first on has an unexplained venting space at the top of the cupboard, it will aid in air transfer.

Last week we went into Victoria to see the Clipper boats that are in a round the world race. Victoria is their only Canadian port of call and it was very interesting to see the boats and here some of the crews stories. This one guy said on the trip across the Pacific it was really cold, they went up near the Aleutions. When there six crew on a watch it was so cold that there were only 2 on deck at a time and they could only stand to be on deck for 20 minutes at a time. There was no heat on the boats so they had to warm their hands up on a tea kettle when they got below. The boats are all the same, they are 68 feet long and they have between 16 to 18 crew members. The only paid member is the captain, all the other crew pay for the priveledge of going on a round the world yacht race. You can go for the whole race or one leg or a number of legs. If you are interested in more you can go to
http://www.tourismvictoria.com/Content/EN/1530.asp
and read all about it. Most of the crews seemed to be from Britain and there were a few Aussies and Canadians thrown in. When we walked by the boats, all their lines were in their dinghys which had been filled with fresh water, to get all the salt off the lines. It would be a truly remarkable experience to participate in something like this.